Downtown Gilliland today
Located smack dab in the middle of nowhere, Gilliland never grew to any great size - boasting a reported peak of 120 residents in 1947 - but those that called Gilliland home worked hard to build it into a community that could take care of itself. The first white settlers to put down roots here established a community called Coyote, and their efforts managed to attract some Norwegian families from Bosque County, who migrated to Coyote in 1890. The community established its own school district on May 1, 1892, and opened the doors of its school in 1895, with Oma Aker serving as the community's first teacher. When Coyote resident O.M. Olson opened a post office inside his home in 1907, the post office was named after district judge W.A. Gilliland, and the name quickly stuck to the town itself.
Abandoned and deteriorating general store at Gilliland
Remains of Gilliland's garage
A peek inside the disheveled garage
A cotton gin was built just outside Gilliland in 1910 and later modernized in 1936. Gilliland's population grew from 50 in 1925 to 120 in 1947, with the school, four businesses and one church serving the town's needs.
Gilliland's abandoned gas station and grocery
Closer look at the rusting Esso gasoline pumps (today, Esso is known as ExxonMobil)
One of numerous derelict houses in Gilliland being reclaimed by the elements
The most important building in Gilliland appears to have been its school. Although small compared to many modern school buildings in Texas today, Gilliland's school featured numerous classrooms, a cafeteria, and a gymnasium that doubled as an auditorium for plays and assemblies. Over the years, the school absorbed other schools in the region, which undoubtedly contributed to the town's growth. In 1948, however, it was Gilliland's turn. The town's high school was transferred to the city of Munday, some 20 miles south of Gilliland, leaving the town with only a grade school that continued to operate until the school itself was closed down in 1975.
Gilliland's school building as seen from the rear
Weatherbeaten swingset at the Gilliland school
Ingenious front gate to Gilliland's school - students can fit through, but cattle cannot
Front door to Gilliland's school building
Stage in the gymnasium, still outfitted for a school play
Bleachers in the gymnasium
Hallway between classes with rotting and deteriorating floor - walking on the floorboards is NOT recommended
The closing of Gilliland's school appears to mirror the fortunes of the town itself; in 1990, the population was reported as 103, but ten years later, the number plunged to only 25. Today, there may be even fewer than that.
Front gate to Gilliland Cemetery
Some of the numerous graves at the cemetery
Memorial to World War I and World War II veterans at the cemetery
One of Gilliland's denizens had a striking name
Tombstone for a nurse
Gilliland Cemetery is approaching its sesquicentennial, and unfortunately some of the older gravestones have been damaged or disappeared completely. A couple of graves caught my eye in the far corner of the cemetery - the only known African-Americans buried in Gilliland. Whoever interred them apparently felt the need to not only isolate their graves from the general population at the cemetery, but also to stamp the word "Negro" on each of their headstones.
Grave marker for Herman Williams
Looking back at the photographs I took of Gilliland, while I am proud of the images I've been able to share with you, there were so many more images of the ghost town I could have captured. I've been looking forward to visiting Gilliland for a long time, and while the chances are remote that I will ever set foot in the townsite again, if I ever do, I will definitely have to grab more photos of this small but proud town nestled in the Rolling Plains, just southeast of the Panhandle. Sometimes, the best stories come out of the smallest towns, and in the case of towns such as Gilliland, it's not just a matter of what the town has built - but also what it has left behind.
You do such good work. Thanks
ReplyDeleteSisy
I wish I could see all this in person. So interesting. And thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteI lived in Truscott (nearby) in the 70's. Gilliland was not much of a town even then, but it did have a store/gas station and we used to play basketball and have community gatherings in the school gym.
ReplyDeleteThanks for this site - I wish there were more of them about the small almost-gone towns of Texas
You lived in Truscott? That's where my grandmother lived. Scottie Burgess. Nice to see a Truscott reference!
DeleteWasn't there a grain elevator in or near Gilliland,around 1960? I am sure I remember hauling grain into the Elevator there during the 1960 harvest.I also remember parking the truck behind those two buildings that are marked downtown.I Also bought gasoline at the ESSO station several times,and one time waited out a rainstorm in front of the ESSO station.
ReplyDeleteHi, Charlie - if you take a look at the picture of the cattle guard in front of the school, you should be able to make out the grain elevator in the distance. At least I think that's the elevator you saw; there were a couple of farm tractors hauling equipment around there when I visited.
ReplyDeleteI and my family were raised there , my grandfathers are: Onie Welch and Sam William Stone, my father is leonard Welch, his sister and husband owned the grocery stire, Paul and Erna Lee Hirn . My Parents graduated fron the school there , Leonard and Carolyn Joy Welch . We saw a completely different town and all of the hard work that our families farmed . Things and times really do change .
ReplyDeleteThe pictures are good , thank you , On behalf of my family, the , Welch , Stone, Horn, Massingill, :)
ReplyDeleteWhat was Gilliland's school mascot?
ReplyDeleteMy father's family was from Gilliland his name Ramon Quintero. I was raised in Truscott myself. Seeing these pics brought back some good memories.
ReplyDeleteHey cousin. Same here. Tomas Quintero
DeleteMy father Ronnie Byrd is from Gilliland. His father is GW Byrd. Mother is Ethelyn Would love to see if anyone remembers him. THey are laid to rest in the Gilliland Cemetary
DeleteIt looks like the pictures are no longer showing due to not having 3rd party hosting. My father, and his ancestors back until the 1800 are from Gilliland and I would love to send him some of these pictures. As a matter of fact most of his kin "Cooks" are buried in the Gilliland Cemetary. If you would be able to email me the pictures I would be ever so grateful. Thank you!
ReplyDeletehttps://www.findagrave.com/cgi-bin/fg.cgi?page=gr&GSsr=41&GScid=1200884&GRid=33539565&CScnty=2657&
ReplyDeleteHello. I would like to introduce myself. My name is Keri Byrd and I came across this page, and I was in awe. My father grew up in Gilliland, but he will not talk about it much. The pictures are not showing due to 3rd party hosting, but I would love to see them if you still have access to them…
ReplyDeleteMy grandfather WW2 VET GW BYRD and Ethelyn ‘Cook” Byrd are laid to rest in the Gilliland Cemetery. She was the ‘lunchlady’ and I have her diploma from the health board. I would love to see this beautiful town that is now just empty. My dad told me he was raised dirt poor, and this blows my mind that this is the town he was raised in.
Keri, send me a email address to delta011@msn.com. I may have some pictures. My family were Gilliland folks
DeleteThats awesome I am a Gilliland and i am gonna visit this town real soon.
DeleteJohn Gilliland
To Keri Byrd. My name is Alicia Cook. I'm the daughter of Johnnie Cook and granddaughter of JT Cook. Who is the brother to Ethelyn, Nina and Howard Cook and son to our great-grandparents (Ganney and Papa Cook) My grandfather JT owned the filling station and fuel delivery service in Gilliland and also farmed and ranched. Our farmland is in Gilliland and Truscott where our grandparents grew up. My dad passed away in November of 2022. I have tons of family pictures and memorabilia of our families, Gilliland and Truscott. If you are interested, I'm more than happy to share the memories and photos with you. Is your Dad Ronnie Byrd? Your sister, Shelley Luther?
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ReplyDeleteSomeone please give me address to the school
ReplyDeleteI stumbled across this site by mistake few years back. I am on my way to TX for work. I am gonna visit this town.
ReplyDeleteJohn Gilliland
This museum is great! It has information on all or most of the families in Gilliland with a lot of pictures and donated or loaned items from Gilliland families, as well as the other surrounding. Wichita Brazos Museum and Cultural Center - Home | Facebook
ReplyDeletehttps://www.facebook.com › Places › Benjamin, Texas › History Museum
The museum and memorial in town are a must see.
My great grandfather was Mr. Olson, the first postmaster. My grandmother and my mother were both born in the same kitchen of the familyhome on the west side of town. It was pretty much falling down the last time i was there about 15 years ago. My mother, Elsie Snow Maguire, my grandmother, Kallybel Olson Snow , my grandfather Claud Snow and my aunt Waynell are all buried at the gilliland cemetary. Most of the Olsons are buried at Truscott. That little town will always mean so much to me. Its three red dirt where i come from.
ReplyDeleteMy grandparents farmed for years Spent much time there Was raised in Knox City Still remember all the stores and people Used to be a thriving community
ReplyDeleteGilliland is still a wonderful close knit community. My grandparents John and Thelma Janison were mail carriers for many years. Most of you that have posted I recognize the names of the relatives listed. I am related to the Cooks, Hollis, Janison, Welch families. The cemetery is well maintained. The old school has all but fallen in. Many of the old homes are either in shambles or gone. I have fond memories of the Cafe, that my Aunt Jessie Cook owned. The general store owned and operated by Paul Cook, his wife Ernalee was a beautician. The filing station owned by JT Cook.
ReplyDeleteIs this Debra or Lisa? You are also related to Propps & Tacketts through Uncle John's mother. I'm looking for grandma Jamison information`..correct spelling her name.. year & age at death. Coming up empty. Also forgot grandpa Jamison's name. My headstone pictures of whole cemetery got lost when my laptop crashed. Maybe you can fill in some blanks. I am Elise, cousin, mother of Terry &Lori.. Lori passed 9yrs ago 3/17.
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